Katrina
18 - 25 August, Ian
So this is my first time back on line after
sticking my mac in the mail in Fairbanks and picking it up again at a hotel in
Chicago. Now we're flying out of the States, re-routed through Houston to avoid
the hurricane (Katrina) that's currently pounding the Florida
coast.In our last couple of days we've
seen the best and the worst of what the US can be. Heidi's bad tooth became
infected again and she and I spent half a day getting politely sent away from a
number of dental practices in Fairbanks, none of whom would see her. Finally,
we went to the local hospital, who at least gave us a prescription for
antibiotics; with the medicine they advocated costing over $200 you can see why
everyone here needs medical insurance. (We ended up getting
pharmacologically-identical capsules for a quarter of the cost.)
With one day to go I discovered the
only internet cafe in town. It's cheap and comfortable, has the
best
coffee and sells The New York Times (I haven't been able to find non-AK papers
apart from USA
Today, if that counts, anywhere else in
Fairbanks). Also atmospheric conditions conspired to give us our best views yet
over to the Alaska Range from the lodge, though, sadly, we didn't get to see the
Aurora Borealis here. In the Times I
read a feature article on the creationists, or Intelligent Design (ID) crowd, as
they now style themselves. They can call themselves what they like (they also
use the
tell-the-controversy
banner) but they're still dumb and, no matter what they say, clearly motivated
by ideology rather than science: after all, they're not "telling the
controversy" about the unsolved questions of, say, fluid mechanics (such as
Gray's paradox regarding the impossibility of dolphins swimming at the speed
they do, given the equations of the science). Arthur Koestler wrote well about
the futility of trying to engaging with the zealots of a closed-minded system a
long time ago. Like Holocaust deniers and Kyoto-rejectors, these guys make up
their minds about the facts a
priori. The whole creationist scene is just
something I'm glad we don't have on any scale at home. We couldn't: apart from
wider cultural considerations, no one has the money to support it. The
lobbyists behind this bring to bear huge resources: the Bill and Melinda Gates
Foundation, for example, has donated $1M to a transport project run by one the
main bodies advocating Intelligent Design (the Discovery Institute) and has
pledged $10M more. Another guy from Microsoft, who actually took an interest in
what we were up at work a few years ago, has set up another foundation - AMDG
(Ad Majorem Dei Gloriem) - styled after the last pope's stationary, which also
funds Christian advocacy. Another
group over here inflicting their dream on the rest of us are the so-called
Pro-Life lobby. We saw them out in force the other day, making patients and
clinicians in the most difficult and stressful of all circumstances feel even
worse about the difficulties they face. I dislike them more than anything -
even more than for their moral arrogance - for their lack of human compassion.
Most of them were herding their
kids
along, as if their placards weren't already sufficient evidence of their
neurology-level insensitivity. It's taken two months in the US for me to
realise what it is for our society to be
European.
Yesterday we flew to Chicago, which I
love, and I wish that we were able to stay there longer. As with Boston we only
overnighted, this time with no chance of a return any time soon. We had dinner
at Giordano's, where we had the unique (as far as I know) Chicago pizza. If you
haven't ever had one they seem to bake a regular pastry base blind with a high
crust and slurp in the ingredients you ask for; it really is the "deep pizza
pie" from That's
Amore.
The big cities in the US - New York,
Boston, San Francisco, Chicago - are probably the spots that I'll always want to
come back to. Paula noted that Chicago is like Manhattan only nicer, and I
agree with her with the proviso that
nicer
may not be the same as
better.En
route to Chicago Zoe left her camera on the plane, which left for San Francisco
at more or less exactly the time when we realised what had happened. The Alaska
Airlines staff were almost creatively unhelpful (only outdone by the lengths
that some of their colleagues in Fairbanks went to to try to get us to miss our
flight) and I have no idea whether we'll get the camera back. In the meantime,
we can't be in The Galapagos with too few cameras so we bought Zoe a new one
this morning. I had a great purchasing experience at the Ritz store, which made
up for the failings of the Alaksa Airlines baggage loss
specialists.So now we're in George
Bush International waiting for our new connection to Quito. For all of the
insanity of the US it is a great country and I can understand why half a million
people each year come over here and take the pledge of allegiance - like our
cab driver this morning who fled from the wars in Eritrea 14 years ago and has
been in Chicago ever since. I don't think I'll be one of them but I'm sure
we'll be returning. It's quite likely that we'll return to Alaska, probably in
Winter next time for the contrast. I'd like to see everyone bumbling along in
the minus 40's. They seem well-adapted - they have power outlets at the parking
bays and plugs trailing out from under cars' hoods to stop any of them turning
into an ice block and avoiding the "square tire" phenomenon.
I've posted a few snaps from our last
couple of months here on our homepage - I hope you like them. Newsletters will
be late this month, I'm afraid.I've no
idea whether we'll get any connectivity this coming month. My guess is that
I'll find a way to post something once or twice. We'll see.
Posted: Fri - August 26, 2005 at 01:52 AM
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Published On: Feb 08, 2006 06:20 PM
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