What I did in the war
5 - 8 August, Ian
Why is it that being able to survey a vast
distance is so relaxing? Certain ocular muscles relax, I suppose, but there's
more to it than that. Evolutionarily, you can see the benefit of being able to
see people approach from afar, but there's no knowing that someone wont wallop
me from behind.From the lounge here,
or better still from the deck, the view, as I think I've said, sweeps out well
into the distance; I don't know how far but there are mountains that are now in
clear view over 100 miles away. I can't see Mount McKinley from here, although
you apparently get a decent view from the university campus. Even so, the
mountains we
can
see rise above 14,000 feet. When I wrote my first blog from here these were
occluded by the smoke from forest fires. Since then the air has cleared and the
view has been better, though the way it clears is unpredictable: rather than
getting generally more or less clear and correspondingly revealing grander or
further-off mountains, the set of particular mountains that you can see at any
time varies in no apparent sequence; they pop up and disappear all across the
horizon.These past few days we've
checked out a few of the sights in Fairbanks. On Friday we went to the Museum
of the North at the university (where we didn't see Mount McKinley). They have
plenty of stuffed animals (bears, polar bears, sea birds, moose, bison) and
interesting displays. We took an audio tour, which has the welcome and uncommon
characteristic that it's easy to choose the order in which you move around (you
just enter the number of the display place you're looking at), rather than the
more common arrangement where you have to traipse round a set route. I like
this way of serving up the information: it's more respectful. They had plenty
of gear that I'd call
Eskimo
stuff, though I'm sure that's not an adjective that they're unrefined enough to
use much, referring instead to specific native peoples. Whatever. It was sweet
in the way in which they butchered the stinking intestines and hides of seals
and caribou to make garments that they prettily decorated with patterned
hems.At the museum I also discovered
that the biggest recorded earthquake in North America took place five days after
I was born, in Alaska. It had magnitude 9.2 and liquefied the soil under
Anchorage.Yesterday Paula and I
realised, around lunchtime, that it was our anniversary. Oh well, at least we
both
forgot. (We did both remember a few days ago but with the abnormally long days
and the changing time zone and everything...) In the evening we all went to see
Wedding
Crashers at the cinema downtown. It's a
standard US genre movie: beautiful people, unequivocal goodies and badies, the
nice people ending up happily together, sex and romance, lots of gags and
set-piece comedy, nothing dark or unexpected, all-male POV... So quite fun in a
don't-need-to see-it-again kind of way. It was also totally unsuitable for the
girls, or at least for Heidi (I'm sure that some of Zoe's friends will have the
DVD soon). Given that most of the beer here generally has no discernible
alcohol and that you can't get in a car without it binging to tell you that the
handbrake is on and with it being illegal to walk across the street unless there
are lines painted down to tell you it's okay, I'd assumed that an R-rated movie
(kids must have an adult with them) would be good for an eight year old. This
was a mistake: the redeeming thing about America is that sometimes it defies the
stereotypes of itself that it strives to conform to and takes you by surprise.
Like the cocktails in New York that make ours seem pathetic. Anyhow, the girls
were untraumatised and kicked over their popcorn as gaily as they do at
home.This afternoon we went to
Creamer's Field, which is a couple of thousand acres of ex-dairy farmland that's
now turned over to wildfowl. They have mammals there too including a herd of
moose, but we saw no more of them than tracks and droppings. The highlights
were the cranes, which are there in abundance and that, as well as their bright
red crests, have the most amazing call: Zoe described it as the sound that wood
makes when you flex and then release it against a strip of wood that's fixed.
My photo today is of a juvenile peregrine falcon (or so I claim) that we also
saw:
I will do a moose snap next
time.I also finished
Word Freaks
(the book about pro Scrabble players)
the
other day. Paula and I have played quite a few hands since and despite not
learning a material quantity of new words my play (as measured by my scores)
seems to have improved considerably just from reading the book. This doesn't
seem unreasonable to me since in my experience the way that we acquire skills is
a two-D process. On the one hand you just need to acquire the raw
knowledge
(in this case the words); and on the other there's the business of learning the
gestalt
of the expert. For example, in languages as well as learning grammar and vocab
(the knowledge) you also need a sense of the gestalt of the language's rhythms
and cadences: the sort of
noise
to make. (As I commented numerous times previously, at my school we did the
former to the exclusion of the latter, which is a poor way to try to learn.)
Anyhow, maybe I get Scrabble a bit more
now.It's also caused me to reflect,
since I'm not currently preoccupied with work as you probably are, on what it is
I'm good at. This is not as easy to judge as you might think. For example,
when I was at university coming up to my finals I could hit a 5 iron very
sweetly and consistently because for some weeks or months I wandered across
fields every day whacking golf balls to take my mind off studying. Now, though,
when I often go for a year without playing, I'm usually pretty rubbish when I do
get out.I believe that the single
discipline for which I have/had the most natural talent is the game of chess. I
played, off and on, quite a lot when I was younger, representing five different
counties as I moved around. I like the strategy and tactics of the game, and
also the way in which it's time-limited: success doesn't fall to the person who
ponders the Platonically
perfect
moves but to the person who is
effective
against the other guy on the day. But I jacked it in when I didn't have the
time - a long time ago - and always intended to return to the game later in
life. (I still do.) The realisation of what "having the time" meant came when
the top player at the club I played for disclosed to me in a car journey to a
match that he played a game or two from
Informator
(the dense Yugoslav digest of all recent top-level games) through in bed
every
night. The guy was
married,
and although I wasn't I didn't want to put in this level of commitment. I could
see why he got to play a couple of boards higher than
me.The real-life characters in
Word Freaks
do make the big commitment to their game.
Many of them are (or are portrayed as) the types of insecure over-achievers that
we all know. The idea that you could be talented at something but not invest a
lot of time in it reflects values that differ from theirs. So what is that we
do
value? What would
you
say? While we can quickly reel off family and relationships, which is
simultaneously a perfect answer and a non-answer, this is another of those
questions that it's difficult even to frame sensibly.
For many people - those for whom it's
had enough just to stay alive - the consideration of how to focus your life on
the things that you value the most must seem extremely decadent. But for those
of us with a degree of political, societal and economic freedom we may as well
reflect on how we use it. One approach is to think of memorable times
(preferably good ones, I guess). What are yours?
Maybe they're with other people (the
relationships thing). Maybe there's something special about particular
situations (the pride of lions stalking along behind the zebra). Maybe at times
things just seemed
good
(I had that nirvana sense when the hail started to lift and we came off the
ridge of the cirque on our second and last full day of walking on the GR20 - not
knowing that trouble still lay ahead on the wet rocks along the path down into
the valley). Maybe you just did something
well.Is
it
helpful
to think of life as like a basket in which we collect such moments? Or, more
starkly, in which we collect
achievements?
It seems like a consumerist pathology when I write it like this, but there
are
some things that I do where I think, "I achieved this and no one can take it
away". Like some academic achievements (getting 19/20 for an English essay off
Roger Langley in the Fourth Form was one of my proudest achievements, if not one
of my most useful). Or walking from one coast of England to the other. Even
some professional achievements might count (maybe getting in the
Risk
magazine hall of fame, and what stood behind it). Hopefully, this year, taken
as a single adventure, might end up being the best of them
all, insha
'llah.If
people are placed on a spectrum according to how much the ability to showcase
such achievements matters to them I think I'm somewhere in the middle: it's
great, but not the
point.One
of the reasons for thinking about this stuff is to decide what to do in the
daytime when I get home: how do you go about making such choices? I think I'm
pretty reasonable at what I do. I have, without doubt, much less talent at my
job than I did at chess. However, I'm not too sloppy and I'm more
accomplished
at my job than I was at the game. When I played chess I only knew how to play
like
me.
At my job I have a keener sense of what other people can do better, and how, and
often I can use this. The fact that I can use knowledge of what I'm strong and
weak at is part and parcel of being professional. It's surprising what
qualities you can have or lack and still draw a decent wage. Clinton, for
example, proved with panache that the morally relaxed could get to the top, and
now GWB is showing that the indolent can also make it: laziness seems to be
Bush's only attractive characteristic - he's spent something over 300 days of
his presidency on vacation. Maybe when
I go back to playing chess one day my decline in recent experience and current
knowledge will be partially offset by having a wider view of ways to play.
(Actually, after some years off, I returned for one night only to win the club
lightning (10 seconds/move) trophy, beating the Informator-in-bed guy en route.
But that also was a long time ago
now.)Returning to work, as everyone
keeps telling me, may be even harder than returning to chess. I
shall
return, I guess, partly for the money, partly for the people. But that isn't
enough: my work, which some of you share, is too demanding to do just for the
convenience of generating cash and seeing friends easily. I've spoken to
several people (maybe even you) who are in that situation now (for some of whom
it was a consequence of taking a break from work and then returning) and it
doesn't sound great. It's also how I felt a little while ago: like a soldier in
WW1 or Vietnam where the war was so absurd that nothing the army could do had
any real meaning. (Pity the "war heroes" of Iraq.) It's obviously better to
spend your big daytime hours on something motivating. I want to re-read the
Foucault book about how the Greeks styled their personal existence around an
aesthetic vision of how a life could be shaped. It's a terrific book and might
help me get my head in line. Any of you worked it all
out?Back here in Alaska, Mike tells me
that it's not only the northern-most and western-most state (even beating Hawaii
to the latter, though parts of Hawaii are more westerly than parts of Alaska),
it's also the eastern-most since the Aleutians cross the international date
line. Mike also reports that Alaska has the biggest gender imbalance of all of
the US states, with only 48% women, generating the quip that for the women here
"the odds are good but the goods are
odd".Ian
Posted: Mon - August 8, 2005 at 08:35 AM
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Published On: Feb 08, 2006 06:20 PM
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