Dispatch from the service culture
16 - 18 July, Ian
A few warm-up questions to begin with. Just note
what answer occurs to you straight away then move on: there are no
prizes...First, when was REM's
Green
album released?Second, what were you
doing when you were 24? And what music were you listening
to?Finally, is reminiscing a bitter or
a sweet experience for you?This
morning Heidi and I were sitting in the dentists before 8 a.m. when Heidi was
scheduled to have an extraction. Our first visit had been a preliminary check
up on a lump that had appeared on Heidi's gum and on our second visit, which was
our first real appointment, Heidi was kept waiting in the dentist's chair for
over an hour while he floated around seeing patients - or clients - in other
rooms. When he breezed in finally he looked at the book I was reading - Dark
Star Safari by Paul Theroux - and, mistaking it as science fiction, bluffly
said, "I used to read a lot of that stuff". I didn't like him. He was clearly
uncomfortable dealing with a nervous child and insisted that when we returned to
have the tooth out as he recommended we take the first appointment of the day,
and that his assistant should dose up Heidi with nitrous oxide before he began.
So we were there early this morning with Heidi anxiously lying back in the
chair, gums numb from the anaesthetic paste that the friendly assistant had
smeared on, and breathing nitrous through a mask. The dentist, who stands about
6'5" in height, briskly started to inject his anaesthetic and Heidi winced as
the needle went into her gum. Immediately the dentist got up, said he wasn't
going to do it and walked out. The assistant referred us to a paediatric
dentist about an hour's drive away, writing candidly on the referral note that
Heidi was nervous and the dentist "didn't have the patience" to treat her. We
drove up to the paediatric dentist afterwards, only to find that they wouldn't
take any new patients for "only" an extraction; they gave us a number we could
call to get a suggestion for who to try
next.Well, dentists and plumbers are
hard to get anywhere and we shouldn't have expected the US to be better than the
norm. I'm half tempted to drive over the border to Canada, where at least we
might get a more civilised brush-off. In reality, since Heidi's gum lump has
gone down we'll probably try to hold on until we reach Australia, hoping that it
doesn't flare up in Ecuador (where as well as any other concerns we don't speak
the language).A conspicuous success of
US culture has been to consumerize a huge variety of human activities,
empowering us with the twin tools of supply and demand and legal redress. I
have reservations about the effect of this on academic pursuits, particularly
science, but in most areas of life it provides standard forms of engagement that
everyone can grasp without special rites of education or initiation. Very
democratic. If you don't like your dentist, for example, and you have enough
time and money you can just go choose another. As I say, the range of disparate
phenomena onto which this pattern has been stamped is extremely broad. From
dentistry to recreational
strolling.Yesterday we had another
walk along one of the many smart trails that are laid out across the Arcadia
National Park. I mentioned previously that the walks here are different from
walks at home: in England you basically take your map and walk in the land as it
is, apart from where local councils or ramblers associations have maintained
sign posts on ancient footpaths and bridleways. In Arcadia there has been a
conscious and successful effort to cast the landscape into a user experience.
There is a selection of trails, graded by difficulty, all provided with
convenient car parks and facilities. There are even signs that tell you not to
add to the cairns or create new ones, which is highly countercultural in Europe.
The landscape has been re-imagined as scenery, and, more specifically, as
discrete view points and photo stops. There's even a blow hole, dramatically
badged as The Thunder Hole, funnelling sightseers from the frequent Park buses
along its regular steps and sturdy rails, with signs redundantly warning of the
danger of slippage. My romantic imagery of these blow holes was partially
formed by Lyndsay Clarke's novel
Alice's
Masque and this combination of
user-friendliness and legal defensiveness doesn't really hit the spot for me.
Nonetheless, the Park's genuine beauty is truly available to all, and it works:
the people are out there in high numbers doing the
walks.Two areas of consumer life where
you'd expect the US to be solid are the provision of fries and the screening of
Hollywood movies. Well, both yesterday and the preceding Sunday we took lunch
at nice popular restaurants in Bar Harbour. And both times the meals came
friesless. Most surprising was that they tried to pass this off without
mentioning it - with the insouciance of Michael Palin in the cheese shop sketch
- even though Paula, trying to get into the swing of things on our infrequent
outings to these places, had ordered burger and fries both times, and
yesterday's restaurant even boasted "all lunches served with fries" on the
whiteboard (!) on the way in. Our meals were better for their frieslessness but
I was disappointed that they didn't raise a smiley apology (or a
discount).Today, after the angst with
the dentists, we tried for a simple pleasure in the afternoon: seeing
Bewitched
at the multiplex at Bangor mall. How could this not be fun? Well, the sound
was mangled all the way through the movie, which didn't help (again, no apology)
but it was still enjoyable. Nicole Kidman is really building up an admirable
corpus of work in my opinion: Birthday
Girl (probably my favourite),
The
Hours,
Eyes Wide
Shut (which I like and you probably don't),
Moulin
Rouge (which I didn't like - I find Ewan
MacGregor very irritating - and you probably did),
Stepford
Wives,
even Batman Forever.
(As a side note on the topic of
films, Shaun pointed out that the David Lynch movie in which someone travels
across the US in a lawn mower is The
Straight Story and not
Mulholland
Drive - I've seen
neither.)Our other pop culture
indulgence this week, keeping with the theme of witchcraft, was the release of
the new Harry Potter book. We joined in with the parade at Bar Harbour (though
lamely not in costume) and collected our new copy at midnight. Again there was
a service breakdown - they'd lost our name from the list of book reservers - but
we still got a copy. I'm about half a dozen chapters in, reading it to all
three girls. I read the previous one to them when we were in Corsica last year,
and prefer this new one (it's less backstory and more action). In the first
chapter the mention of Somerset made me think nostalgically of home: it's
exactly the right sort of place for the dementors to circle mistily around in,
and I miss it. I'm less delighted by the Americanisation of the text (colors,
sneakers, airplanes, the sourcerer's stone) and I don't know whether Fred and
George's bedroom is on the second (UK) or second (US) floor of The Burrow (I
suspect the former). I resent the changes to the text in the same way that I
would if Penguin decided that I had to have u's added to John Updike's colors
for me to understand them.For me, the
image of Wal Mart has become an encompassing icon for the service aspect of the
US: a huge store you can push your trolley around to sample everything that you
might conceivably want, with the advantage of accessibility and the drawback of
the loss of the romance of the particular idiom. As I said last time, which is
even truer today, my disappointments with Maine, such as they are, are its
inability to serve us up a satisfactory consumer
experience.I would, though, emphasize
that there's a lot more to the US than a service culture, which can be magical
or dreary depending upon its execution and, equally variably, your mood. But it
is a distinctive and important feature of the US, and I'm coming to think that
its reductive aspects lead to a return of the repressed in the guise of a
concern with a bald spirituality that could only be American. There's a show on
the local radio station here called New
Dimensions that is what you'd imagine it to
be. Yesterday's programme centred on an interview with a lady called Oriah (?)
Mountain Dreamer. I listened to the whole thing in the car. When she began -
being as we're here to learn about other cultures - I consciously turned down
my Brit scepticism (which bristled equally at the interviewer) to listen to what
she had to say. After I managed to get past some of her verbal mannerisms (and
her
name,
for God's sake) I found that I liked much of what she had to say. Partly this
was because she said stuff that is already part of how I think about things,
which always warms up my sympathies. For example, she cited a study of teachers
getting kids to make pots. They were split into two: one group told the kids
only to make really excellent pots, while the second group told the kids just to
make lots of pots. Guess which group made the best pots? Of course: the group
that made a
lot of pots! So Ms Mountain Dreamer's message
to people was lower your standards! While I certainly don't think that this has
universal applicability for proud professionals, I do agree that the more you do
something the more you can and there are a load of other cliches and slogans I
like that say the same thing. Beyond reinforcing my existing thinking she said
some fluffy and less fluffy stuff about the importance of creativity in people's
lives that I buy into. If I lived here I'd listen to this show every
week.As well as these overt and
consciously styled forms of spirituality that are here all around, there are
stranger phenomena that seem to intrude more surreptitiously. For example,
there are a number of roadside graveyards around by us that appear in unexpected
clearings in the woods; at two of these I've noticed naive stags figures
brooding over the graves:
Paula speculated sensibly that these
may be over children's graves but in at least one of these (where the birth date
is clearly visible) that isn't the case. Any
ideas?After we watched
Bewitched
today I went into Borders and bought a copy of
Green
by REM. There's an REM track in the movie that's not on that CD, but I had the
Green
tape when it came out (1988) and felt like hearing it again (I gave my tape away
years ago). At the time I was living in central London and driving out to
Sutton every day where the company for which I then worked had a client. It was
a nice drive, against the run of traffic morning and evening, in my black
Renault 5 Turbo. The other tape I remember listening to at the time was Michael
Nyman music from Peter Greenaway films; I particularly used to enjoy this as I
drove back across Holburn Circus in the summer evenings, looking up to the
statue of a chap on a horse raising his bowler
hat.There are very few people from
that time whom I'm in touch with now. Reminiscing, it seems to me, is a rosy
experience when the people you shared the memories with are still around, and a
more poignant one when they're not.
Posted: Tue - July 19, 2005 at 04:38 AM
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Published On: Feb 08, 2006 06:20 PM
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